In Mexico, “street food” retains its flavor but loses its color

It’s very nice, but the view is low: Mexico’s tasty street restaurants still serve juicy tacos or “tortos” (sandwiches) sauces, but trained eyes can see the lack of color at this party. Taste.

In the city center, the “Bostos de Comida” (“restaurants”) have lost their visual identity. Gone are the graphic charts that adorned every kiosk: fruits for the “super healing juices” vendor, smiling piglet, red letters for “delicious ste tacos”.

In the end, this popular graphic design announced the menu of the day to people who had not read it since the 19th century.

Now in every street corner, simple laminated metal sheet counters are decorated with the tasteless message: “Cuauhtémoc Town Hall is your home”.

Cuauhtémoc is one of the 16 divisions of Mexico City, the crown jewel of the cathedral, the historic center and the sophisticated surroundings of Candacea, Roma and Juarez (parks, wooded streets, 19th century buildings).

– “You take it out or shoot yourself” –

A few months ago, Cuauhtémoc City Hall – named after the last Aztec emperor – demanded the removal of the display menus that adorned the kiosks and “street food” stations.

Sandra Cuevas, the young mayor of Mexico City who ousted Guadeloupe from the ruling left-wing party Morena in the June 2021 election, questioned the city’s “image enhancement” and “order and discipline.”

The 36-year-old Cuevas became nationally famous in March for assaulting a police officer. The selected young officer had to apologize to the peacekeeping officer for being suspended from his duties.

The “Pustos de Comida” affair may seem ridiculous in relation to the many problems of the city of nine million people (traffic, pollution, rental prices, earthquake risk, crime a few kilometers away from the sober lifestyle of Roma-Contessa). .

But one group opposes Cuevas’ initiative, saying popular art and traditional scenes of the city are being murdered.

“This is an attack on the identity of the city and all + Selangos + (residents of Mexico City),” Aldo Solano, 35, an art historian, told AFP.

Fearing retaliation, the “Pustos” tenants did not dare to protest.

“They told us: you take it out or shoot it,” said one of the restaurant owners on the street anonymously.

Mayor Sandra Cuevas has been accused of extorting money from small informal businesses by Mexican city officials ahead of her election, which she denies.

Adon Navratri, 53, who has been in the street graphics service for more than 30 years, sighed that Cuevas’ decision was a “big mistake.” “It’s an art, even if it seems simple.”